In San Francisco, a Cocktail Is Not Just a Drink

Dec 27, 2008

THE bartender at the Alembic took my order for a mint julep. He unfolded a small canvas sack, which he filled with ice and laid on the bar. He took up a black bat and began whaling on the pouch, reaching above his head to pummel the bag over and over again.

He mounded the resulting gravel-sized ice in a silver cup into which followed 12-year Old Fitzgeraldbourbon and simple syrup. He snapped a generous bunch of dark mint sprigs and planted it in the ice. He concealed a small straw inside the bouquet, such that my first experience of the now-frosted cup was a clean, soaring nose of pure mint. A bracing, richly sweet wash of bourbon followed close behind.

It was the best mint julep I have ever had. By far.

Read it on the NYT Site…

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